It has been a few years since I've sewn a front fly zipper. I'm presently sewing a front fly zipper on the Vogue 1309 Issey Miyake pants
For this I sought out some additional resources. The 1982 edition of Vogue Sewing states "that the placket in women's garments always laps right over left, just the opposite for men's" (332).
The Issey Miyake pattern has instructions and pattern pieces for a front fly zipper typically found in menswear sewing. And indeed when I turn to the menswear sewing section found in Vogue Sewing the illustrations and instructions read with a sense of familiarity. Even the Issey Miyake right fly pattern piece looks like the one in the menswear sewing section of my book.
Sigh of relief.
With all the pattern pieces that I had to sew for this small section of the pants, I will admit came some fear. That is why I reached for the Vogue Sewing book. This wasn't like any of the "women's garments" that had the fly piece built into the pant or skirt pattern section. There was no need for the reference book other than to reassure me that everything will work out fine and that the Vogue 1309 pattern came with excellent instructions.
Although, one difference from the pattern instructions and the Vogue Sewing instructions is the placement of the zipper height. The Vogue pattern instructions suggest that it might be necessary to make a new zipper stop in order to shorten a 7" zipper. In the Vogue Sewing book the zipper is noted as extending above the front fly opening.
Sew far I'm quite pleased with this pattern, here's a photo journey to show how it turned out.
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