Thursday, 20 July 2017

The Eva Dress by Tessuti

This is my first project using Tessuti patterns and I'm even more impressed with how it turned out than I was when the patterns arrived.


Let me start off by saying that the Eva Dress is one comfortable dress. I adore the lantern shape of the lower portion of the dress and there are pockets. Pockets are always a win detail. I can easily see another copy making it's way onto the next project list.  


A few people have mentioned that Tessuti patterns run on the large size but I didn't find this to be the case. I chose my size according to my bust measurement and no complaints. The only changes that I was aware of when I made this version was to the length and the pocket placement. I shortened the lower section at the hem by two inches and raised the position of the pockets. Unknowingly, I sewed the seams with a 5/8" seam allowance when the instructions call for a 1/2" seam allowance. Oops! This may be why I didn't find that the pattern runs large, as others had warned. Obviously, I didn't read the instructions throughly before I proceeded with the sewing since it seemed like a pretty straight forward project after flipping through the pages of the book.    

The light-weight cotton stretch fabric originates from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics and made it into my fabric stash a few years ago. I did find that I used more fabric that was called for in the pattern instructions. According to the pattern, I should have only needed 2.45 metres of 140 cm fabric. I used three metres and did not have enough left over fabric to cut bias strips so I made another trip to the store for some matching bias tape. Which wasn't a big deal because I discover picot elastic was back in stock on that trip.  

It is a quick project for a comfortable summer frock and I'm sure another version will soon appear.   
  

The Stats:

Fabric:  3 metres of cotton stretch fabric

Bias Tape:  2.9 metres

Fusible Tape:  1 metre

Pattern:  Tessuti's The Eva Dress

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, thread for the sewing machine and serger, walking foot, pins, cutting table, iron, ironing board, scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, Burda tracing paper, highlighter, pencil/pens, wrist brace, many breaks, good tunes, and snacks.  

Happy Sewing!  

Tuesday, 18 July 2017

You'll Never Guess What Happened Today!

I stopped in at Marshall / Northwest Fabrics and was surprised when I came across this, 


picot elastic! There's an assortment of colours to chose from, ivory, pink, navy, black and grey. Needless to say, I was over-the-moon thrilled and picked some up. Once I have my current project completed, I'll have to dig out my Simplicity 8229 pattern again.    

Happy Sewing!  


Friday, 14 July 2017

My Sewing Mojo Arrived in the Mail!

If you follow on instagram you already know that I'm coloured impressed by the amazing service I received from Tessuti Fabrics.  


These lovely patterns arrived yesterday, beautifully packaged, with labels and my newly found sewing mojo. I decided to let go of the Butterick pattern for now and make the Eva Dress instead. I need something loose-fitting and comfortable more than I need a new top.  

Now, I just need to find time to sew!   

Wednesday, 12 July 2017

Squirrel!

Oh my goodness, when it comes to sewing projects, I have the attention span as Dug from Up!  


I have projects cut out and in various stages of completion yet they sit there as I move on to the next project just to get bored by it as well. Remember this one?  


Yes, I was super excited to get my hands on that Marcy Tilton jacket pattern and cut out my fabric only to lose interest when I discovered an issue with the pocket pattern. The project moved to the side-lines as I considered if I wanted to fix the pocket pattern piece's width and cut out more fabric or omit the pockets all together.  


And that Sybil Connelly coat project, still in a state of is-it-ever-going-to-be-finished? [holding head in shame].  I took a break from my fitted sleeve struggles. Bias cut sleeves with a cotton sateen stretch wasn't the best fabric choice. I think I need to cut down the curve on the sleeve cap.  

And last night, I started to lose interest in my latest project, Butterick 6492. I don't know if it was because I'm uninspired by my polyester fabric or that I was too tired to actually sew. But I was dangerously close to giving up on the latest project.  


I have a whole bin full of unfinished projects waiting for some attention. I think this is the source of my inability to focus and finish something. Is it this clutter that is taking up space on the sewing table that is my distraction?

I feel like I need a vacation from all things sewing related and maybe I'll come back with a fresh outlook. That's just crazy-talk, isn't it! Or maybe I just need to step away from the polyester fabric that wasn't even my first choice. 

It's all about the fabric that can play a part in seeing a project to competition. And as we can see, I've made a few less-than-perfect fabric choices. I need to make some tough decisions about some fabrics in my stash.  

Happy Sewing!  


Sunday, 9 July 2017

In Sewing News Today...

McCall's released their early fall 2017 line of patterns this week echoing fashions found in the RTW landscape. I get that atheleisure wear is not going anywhere anytime soon but there is nothing that bores me more.  


And throwing in the cold-shoulder detail is not making it anymore interesting. Nor is throwing on a pair of heels with the atheleisure.  

McCall's 7636, Early Fall 2017
And if atheleisure is not one's thing there is a flashback to decade past. No, I'm not talking about the Archive Collection pattern, McCall's 7625, with it's sweet ode to 1955. 

No, I'm talking about the flashback to the nineteen-eighties nightclub scene. 

This is meant to be a cosplay outfit, right? Or a possible Halloween costume idea? Well, all I can say is that I don't know why I even bothered to look at McCall's patterns. I'm finding that they offer less and less that I find interesting. It wasn't always the case. I miss some of the designs from the NY Collection they offered in the past. And I'm going to revisit one of them for my next sewing project.  


For my early fall look I'm going to work on a muslin for this jumper/dress, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7352. I have some graffiti print denim that I like to make it out of once I get the fit all sorted out.  

How about you, any plans for fall sewing?  

Happy Sewing!  



Saturday, 8 July 2017

Slow Sewing

This is the second version of Butterick 6026 and I'm really pleased with how this version turned out. The pin tucks stand out in a solid colour and they are my favourite feature of this Katherine Tilton design.


Again, I used my blind hem foot to make these pin-tucks. I really like how they turned out over using the pin-tuck foot.

This project, however, took much longer to finish with over two weeks from the time I cut it out to the finish. It has been an activity in slow sewing as I was feeling under the weather that dismissed my sewing mojo to a near non-existent level. It is nice to finally see this project complete.

I have to echo all the praise that this pattern has earned over the years, it really is a comfortable shirt. Even though I find this a comfortable top, I did adjust the design to allow for more ease. The back has double pointed darts as part of the design that were removed and the curve at the waistline was adjusted when extra ease was given at the side seams. I added 5/8" from the hemline grading up to zero at the bottom of the armhole. There were, surprisingly, no adjustments made to the hem or sleeve length. These lengths were perfect on my five-foot-one frame.

This photo shows a true representation of the colour.

The fabric is from Marshall / Northwest Fabrics and I found it in a section labelled linen fabrics but also included some cottons. They have a very small selection of linen. There is a little doubt that it is a 100% linen because it doesn't wrinkle like other linens in my stash. Marshall / Northwest is notorious for not labeling their bolts of fabric and there is a trend in the fabric stores to label fabrics as one content when it is actually a blend. Perhaps this is the case? Maybe I'll be proven wrong when I test it out with a day of wear? I pretreated the fabric with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer. I didn't find that it wrinkled as much as this linen fabric. I was actually able to get out the wrinkles with the cotton setting on my steam iron. I used a non-fusible interfacing for the collar and collar stand. Sure fusible interfacing is quicker to use, but I prefer the look and texture of a non-fusible more. I think it's worth taking the time to hand-stitch in place.

The buttons are from Fabricland and turned out to be a perfect match for my fabric.


They appear clear on the fabric but they have a bluish-green tint to them. I increased the quantity of buttons used on this project and followed the advice of others to watch out for the button placement guide with this pattern. Instead, I tried it on and eye-balled the placement. All-and-all, I'm really happy with how it all came together despite the length of time it took to complete. It will be a comfortable work shirt.   


The Stats

Fabric:  1.3 metres 

Interfacing:  0.6 metres

Buttons:  8 - 1/2" 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve roll, sewing machine, blind hem foot, walking foot, buttonhole foot, silk thread for hand stitching, cotton thread for top-stitching, polyester threads for the serger, Kleenex tissues, meds, and lots of naps.

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, 4 July 2017

The Ugliest Thing I've Made

But my goodness, is it ever comfortable. So, I'm good with it. 


Late last night when I couldn't sleep because I was coughing up a storm, I got up and made this over-sized extended tee-shirt into a night shirt using New Look 6321. This is view E which should have been a tunic length and with side slits. I made a few changes, it wasn't this ugly on it's own. I lengthened the hem by ten inches and removed the side slits. I also lengthened the sleeves by five inches. I would have lengthen both more if there was more fabric to work with but I used up all of the terry knit that I had in my stash. I didn't focus too much on the finishing details. I could have hemmed it but I just ran it through the serger and let the hems rolled as they wished. I didn't have the energy to fight it and I didn't want to invest any Knit-'N-Stable tape into this project. The neckline could have been finished with top-stitching but again, I didn't have the energy. I just wanted to stitch it up as quickly as I could and wear it to bed.


I'm not completely sold on the pattern, it's fine I guess. I would recommend it for a beginner for sure. Otherwise, I won't be revisiting this pattern. I don't care for how wide the sleeves are and I have far more interesting sleepwear patterns to try out. But it was a quick and easy sewing project and it served it's purpose. I found this pattern at a second hand shop and even though I only paid a few nickels for it, I was disappointed that it wasn't a complete pattern. It's a hit-and-miss shopping for patterns at second-hand shops.  

Maybe my lack of excitement for this sewing project is part feeling under the weather and part not inspired by my fabric. I made this with the end of the bolt, white terry knit that I found at Marshall / Northwest Fabrics last year. The fabric was also a bargain price score as it had some slight flaws that didn't bother me too much. It's not like I'll be wearing it out in the public sphere. What was important is that it's comfortable to sleep in, I just wish a had more fabric to pull off long sleeves.


The Stats:

Fabric:  2 metres of cotton terry knit

Pattern:  New Look 6321

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, walking foot, thread for the machines, cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chaulk, measuring tape, ruler, Kleenex tissue, Tylenol, cup of tea, and many breaks.

Happy Sewing!


Monday, 3 July 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Big holiday weekend and I missed all the festivities as I spent the weekend in bed. ~sigh~ I had Canada Day off and last week I briefly considered making an outfit just for the occasion. I was inspired by this picture on Pattern Review.  

Butterick 6177 Katherine Tilton design
Photo credit:  pfjonker {Source}

Isn't it fabulous! It was also one of the featured holiday outfits on Pattern Review's instagram account. It's made with the Canada Day cotton prints sold at Fabricland. Marshall Fabrics also carries Canada themed print fabrics. I'm so glad that I didn't spend the money on fabric (I can't believe I just wrote that! There might be hope for me yet.) for a festive Canada Day outfit since it would have turned into my holiday pyjama outfit instead. Mind you, I could use some new pyjamas.  

Talking about pyjamas, New Look 6321 is a recent addition to the pattern stash. I found this uncut pattern at a second hand store for a few nickels. The plan is to lengthen view E and if there is enough fabric maybe end up with a maxi-length nightshirt. There is some white cotton terry knit in the fabric stash that I would like to use up. If there isn't enough of the terry knit for a maxi-length, I just make a tee-shirt length and use up the last bit of blue waffle fabric and make some pants as well. We'll see what I can manage.  

Nothing like feeling under the weather to make one consider making sleepwear. Well, that's all in sewing news today. I hope you're enjoying the holiday weekend (if you're celebrating Canada Day or the forth of July tomorrow).   

And Happy Sewing!  


Friday, 30 June 2017

June in Review

Sewing:

Top L to R:  Black crepe dress, Simplicity 2372; animal print linen shirt, Butterick 6026; cotton knit
t-shirt, Vogue 9057; three pairs of cotton panties, Simplicity 8229.
The sewing mojo hasn't yet returned to what it used to be but I have been doing some sewing. Simplicity 8229 and Vogue 9057 have become TNT patterns and there is another version of Butterick 6026 cut out and ready to sew.  

RTW & Fabric Fast:

The RTW fast, I can report, has become second nature. I'm not even tempted by clothing found in the stores. I'm at the point that I couldn't imagine shopping for clothes. The fabric fast is another story. For the first half of the year, it's been an epic fail. Maybe I'll be more successful in the second half of the year? We'll see... 

The Stats:


Supplies
Quantity Used from the stash this Month 
Quantity Used this Year
Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape
1.11 metres
3.83 metres
0
Bias Tape

3.6 metres
0
Buttons
7
35
50
Chain

0
0
Cord Stopper

0
0
Elastic
7.2 metres
15.5 metres
6 metres
Fabric
6.3 metres
67.3 metres
62
metres
Fusible Tape
2.8 metres
34.26 metres
6 rolls
Hand needles

2
0
Hook and Eyes

0
0
Interfacing
0.3 metres
5.6 metres
6 metres
Lace trim
2.6 metres
0
Pattern (new)
1
12
13
Pattern (previously used--TNT)
5
19
0
Ribbon

1.1 metres
3.3 metres
Serger needles

0
0
Serger thread

4
12
Sewing machine needles

3
0
Snaps

5
0
Thread
2
14
18
Trim
2 metres
7 metres
Velcro

0
0
Zipper
1
6
8



Happy Sewing! 

Tuesday, 27 June 2017

More Cotton Knickers

I refuse to buy any more knickers now that I have Simplicity 8229 in my pattern collection.  


Seriously, with this pattern and some cotton knit fabric I just want to replace all the ill-fitting RTW undies in my drawer.  


These beige / taupe coloured pairs are made with left over cotton knit from this top. I recently found this cotton knit fabric at Fabricland. The picot elastic is from Marshall/Northwest Fabrics but I haven't seen any more of each of these on my last trips to the stores. Thankfully, I have a few leads on some online shops that sell picot elastic. 


The Stats:  

Fabric:  1 metre 

Elastic:  4.8 metres 

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, walking foot, scissors, thread clippers, pins, cutting table, iron, ironing board, thread for the serger and sewing machine, box of kleenex (I can't be catching a cold!), cup of tea with lemon and honey, and a couple of breaks.  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 26 June 2017

Monday's Mending Pile

There is a reason that I save itsy-bitsy tiny pieces of interfacing. For those times when a thumb-size hole appears in a jacket pocket.


The interfacing comes in handy when doing little mending projects. Call me frugal if you like. I won't take offence, actually I'll take it as a compliment.   


The hole in my jacket is actually a tear just above the stitching line. I could have used a store bought patch but those are heavier than the fabric on my jacket.  


This piece of fusible interfacing was a better match.


And once I had the tear covered up I just restitched a new seam. Now I just have to get in the habit of throwing my keys in my purse instead of my pockets.  


Next item to make it off the mending pile is the shirtdress that I made out of McCall's 7546. The pattern instructions call for top-stitching along the basting of the front facing, instead I hand-stitched it in place. My bad because it didn't hold up.  


Top-stitching the front facing was a quick fix. No fancy tricks here, just a observation that McCall's knows best. Well, that's a couple more items off the mending pile.  

Okay, it's not quite this bad.  It just feels like it. {Source}

Happy Sewing!  

Sunday, 25 June 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Sewing blooper #... actually, I lost count.


I cut out a couple of pairs of panties using left over knit from this top. The plan was that it would be an easy sewing project. It should have been an easy project considering this is not my first pair using Simplicity 8229. Without looking at the sewing instructions I layered the front, back and crotch lining pieces in the wrong order and created my latest sewing blooper. I'll try again tomorrow. I'm undecided if I want to attempt to unstitch it or just re-cut another pair. If there's enough scrap fabric, I think it will be easier to just re-cut.    


I did have some sewing related success this weekend.  I found buttons for another version of Butterick 6026, a Katherine Tilton shirt. Woohoo!, gotta love simple pleasures. I hope to start on this project tonight after I get those panties done.  

Well that's what is on my sewing table.  What's on yours this weekend?  

Happy Sewing!  

Wednesday, 21 June 2017

Practical Sewing

UPDATE:  Over at PatternReview.com Quiltfixer shared another source for 3/8" plush picot elastic:  Sew Sassy.  Thanks Quiltfixer!

Simplicity 8229 has to be hands down one of the most valuable sewing patterns in my collection. With this pattern I'm able to make the most comfortable panties imaginable.  


The most difficult part of this project is finding the supplies. There was no problem sourcing the cotton knit fabric, it's the 3/8" wide plush picot elastic that is proving to be a bit of a challenge. For this pair I used a 1/2" plush picot elastic that I found at Fabricland. I can't find 3/8" wide elastic anywhere near here in a brick and motor shop. Thankfully, Tany posted a link to this shop, B,Wear, out of Sweden which sells elastic for panties.  

Back to the elastic that I did use for this pair. It worked out great. The only thing that I had to do differently is sew a second row of zig-zag stitching to make sure the elastic was properly stitched in place after it was turned over. It just took a little more thread and time to complete. It was all worth it in the end and it's good to know that the 1/2" elastic works just as well as the 3/8" wide elastic.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  0.5 metres of cotton knit

Elastic:  2.4 metres of 1/2" wide picot elastic

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Scissors, pins, cutting table, sewing machine, serger, walking foot, iron, ironing board and thread clippers.  

Happy Sewing!  



Tuesday, 20 June 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Did you know that Butterick is having a two day sale on patterns?  $1.99 patterns and that includes the new fall release!  


Katherine Tilton's Butterick 6492 and Butterick 6357 both made the cut. Only two patterns this time. 

I really do like Butterick 6495, the Life Style Wardrobe pattern, and it is a great value (especially during this sale) but I don't need another coordinates pattern. So, it was just the two Katherine Tilton patterns.  

In other sewing news... I finished fixing Mama R's dress hem.  


Last night I picked up some seam binding and re-stitched the hem this morning. She's thrilled with her new dress and I'm equally as thrilled to move onto a new project. I'm thinking Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9052 might be up next. We'll see... 

Until then, happy sewing!  


Sunday, 18 June 2017

Little Black Dress

Simplicity 2372 has made more appearances on this blog than any other pattern. It is the most trusted pattern in my collection and Mama R's favourite dress pattern. I've lost count how many dresses, let alone the other pieces, I've made with this pattern. I've used this pattern to make cotton house dresses and fancier versions. This one is the latest version in a crepe fabric. It is also the shortest version I've made. This one is truly a little black dress.


I don't know what happened, near the finishing of this dress, Mama R tried it on and it appeared to be too long and we agreed on chopping 1 1/2" and turning it up for a 1 1/2" hem. Boy, oh boy it's short! So right now it is heading to the mending pile to see if I can lower the hem. I found some single fold bias tape that I'll sew on and lower it an inch. It should be ready for another fitting tomorrow evening.  But for now...

The usual changes were made to the pattern according to Mama R's preferences.

  • Remove the centre front seam and cut on the fold.  
  • Insert zipper at the centre back (its a pullover style dress but she finds it easier to get out of it with the aid of the zipper).  

  • Lengthen the sleeves.
  • Shortened the length. Yeah, I went too far on this step.  
  • Adjust the neckline width by resizing at the raglan sleeve seam.  
The fabric is a polyester crepe that has been in the fabric stash for years, okay maybe decades. I picked it up so long ago I can't remember where I picked it up. This crepe is unlike the crepes I've seen lately, it has a beautiful weight to it and even Mama R is quite taken by the texture and weight of this piece of fabric. And that is how this fabric finally became a dress for Mom. Well that and the fact that there wasn't enough to make another Vogue 1410 for moi. 


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres heavy-weight polyester crepe

Interfacing:  0.3 metres fusible interfacing

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Basting tape:  44" two-faced tape

Pattern:  Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, polyester thread for the sewing machine, serger, thread, silk thread for hand stitching, sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, regular foot, screwdriver, scissors, thread clippers, tweezers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, many breaks (for stretching and running errands), and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!  




Saturday, 17 June 2017

Back to Thinking About Summer Sewing

Part of the recommended physio exercises I was given these past few months was the suggestion to exercise in a pool. I already know of the benefits of exercising in a pool (easy on the joints, etc, etc) but I haven't done so because of one reason. 


I can't find a pool outfit that I would feel comfortable enough to exercise in. And they don't make swimsuits like they used to ~sigh~. I really want to find a board short. I haven't found a bathing suit shop here that sells ladies board shorts. And whenever I try to find one in a sporting good store I've been directed to the mens section because apparently they don't make them for women. And they don't look all that comfortable. The ones I find on the internet for women seem to sit lower than I would like them to sit on my body. I don't think I'm asking for much, am I?


Apparently not. According to an article in today's Globe and Mail, some men are finding that "ill-fitting and bland board shorts are unacceptable" as well. Tailored swimwear! Now, this is what I'm thinking about. Well, since I don't have $595 for a custom made swim shorts I think I'll just have to make my own. 

I've already been thinking about making my own swimwear for some time and have been searching high and low for fabric. Both Fabricland and Northwest Fabrics carry swimsuit fabric but not board short quality fabric. I guess there is not a lot of demand for this speciality fabric from the sewing community in a town with a famously short summer season. Luckily, The Fabric Fairy sells a wide range of colours and prints in board short quality fabrics that has me thinking that this project just might be possible.   

I really like the idea of a tailored board short but there is also another pattern for swim shorts that I might be willing to try, Jalie's swim shorts. These however are made from spandex but they have a wide waistband and are supposed to stay put in the water.   


It might be an option. You can't tell by the picture but they are described as having a raised waist for larger sizes where more coverage and support is needed and this pattern has been given wonderful reviews online. I might make it to the pool yet.  

Have you ever sewn swim / board shorts?  




Wednesday, 14 June 2017

Butterick's Fall Pattern Release

Oh my, can you believe that there are already fall 2017 patterns being released? Although, I am looking forward to fall, always! (I love autumn.) I haven't even brought out all of my summer time clothing out of storage. And yes, it will seem like in a blink of the eye, autumn will be upon us but I would like to make that off-the-shoulder top and maybe wear it at least once before I think about fall sewing. That said, there are some lovely patterns that have me thinking ahead.  

Of course another Tilton design caught my eye. At first Katherine Tilton's shirt pattern, Butterick 6491, reminds me of a shorter version of Marcy Tilton's coat pattern, Vogue 8934, with the shaped hem. Except this one has tucks instead of darts at the hemline and a different sleeve and collar design. It looks great on the model, and that forest print fabric is fabulous make up in this design. I think I'm more taken by the cream and black coloured fabric, so pretty.  

Butterick 6492 is for sure on my wish list. Not only would I wear this top as part of my everyday wardrobe, I wouldn't mind this as a pyjama top as well. It looks that comfortable and pockets!

I'm not sure if Butterick 6495 will make it into the collection but I really do like that the off-the-shoulder look is being interpreted for fall. I would certainly make that dress maxi length and maybe three-quarter length sleeves and wear it with a vest instead of a cardigan. But realistically, I don't need another dress. 

Oh no, Butterick 6490! I'm not falling this this cape/top style again. Once was more than enough. Okay, maybe I'll try the cape/top style again but if I do it will be giving Donna Karan's OOP Vogue 1417 a try instead. Prairie autumns call for more arm coverage.  

Well, that's enough thinking about fall sewing when I haven't even put a dent into my summer sewing projects. And besides, the only fall sewing I should be thinking about is making dresses for an autumn wedding. But I don't even want to think about that yet.   

Happy Sewing!   

Tuesday, 13 June 2017

Happy National Sewing Machine Day!

I just thought that I would share something since today is National Sewing Machine Day. This is the Sewing Machine Orchestra (installation) by Canadian artist Martin Messier.  






It is a journey into the connection between sight, light, and sound with an everyday object (in this case a pre-computerized sewing machine) exploring the emotions and memories they stir.



Enjoy and happy National Sewing Machine day!




Monday, 12 June 2017

The Wild Side of Butterick 6026

I'm not someone who is typically drawn to animal print fabrics but when I spotted this linen fabric there was just something about it that I couldn't resist.  


This 100% linen animal print fabric went for a song during the tail end of Mitchell Fabrics closing sale. If it weren't for the sale I don't think I would have splurged on this little luxury. It was the last 1.4 metres from the bolt and when I picked it up I had no idea what I would make with it. With some creative pattern placement and still keeping the pieces on grain, I was able to use every last bit of this 132 cm wide fabric and squeak out a version B from Butterick 6026.


And I'm quite taken with Butterick 6026, a Katherine Tilton design, as well. Let's talk about this pattern. I was a little concerned about the "fitted top" description on the back but after reviewing the finished measurements I felt more relaxed about proceeding. It was the pin tucking design featured on the sleeve hem, front neckline and bodice that drew me to the pattern.


Since I like to have some ease around the mid-section I left off the back darts and after trying it on after basting the sides I went down to a 3/8" seam allowance instead of a 5/8 seam allowance. I cut the top as a size 14 around the neckline, shoulder and armhole and cut a size 16 from the side seam. I like the amount of ease it now has but next time I'll adjust the pattern piece. There was no adjustment to the hem length at all. My favourite part are the pin tucks.     


After asking for some guidance on the button from instagram followers, I went with these vintage black and white buttons.  They were on a card of six for seventy cents, that old.


Oh, and the pin tucks! Even though I own a pin tuck foot I went with the method illustrated in my sewing machine manual.


It calls for the blind hem foot and to move the needle shaft to the left. Using the guide on the foot, run the folded edge of the fabric up to the guide and stitch. It turned out perfectly and there was no need to switch to a double needle. If you're interest in using a pin-tuck foot method this is a good tutorial. But I have to say, I'm really pleased with how it turned out with the blind hem foot method. The pin tucks took the most time for marking, pressing and then stitching and was worth the effort. I think they're just lovely.

I pre-treated the fabric with a tumble through the washing machine and then dryer and of course a good pressing. I typically pre-treat my fabric with the same method that I'll wash it after it's made into something. But I don't plan on tossing this through the machines. I'm quite smitten with how it turned out and plan to launder it with some tender hand washing.

And for someone who isn't typically drawn to an animal print, I can't wait to wear this one.


The Stats:

Fabric:  1.4 metres printed linen

Buttons:  7 - 1/2" vintage buttons

Pattern:  Butterick 6026

Thread:  100% cotton thread for sewing, 100% polyester threads for the serger and basting .

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, buttonhole foot, blind hem foot, regular foot, walking foot, serger, pins, pin cushions, cutting table, iron, ironing board, scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, ruler, sewing and knitting gauge, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, hand needle, wax, threads, chai tea breaks, stretching breaks, and breaks to watch a bit of the Tony Awards.

Happy Sewing!




The Eva Dress by Tessuti

This is my first project using Tessuti patterns and I'm even more impressed with how it turned out than I was when the patterns arrived...