Monday, 5 December 2016

Winter Coat: Underlining

Progress on the coat slowed down today. I do believe that my plans to sew a winter coat in a weekend were overly ambitious. Between the stabbing pain from this sore throat when I cough and the chills to the breaks to mix some tea, honey and lemon, I'm amazed that I got anything done this afternoon. 

Mind you there was a near error so it's a good thing that things slowed down. Luckily, no seam-ripper work. I might have given up if it came to that.   

I'm currently working trying to work on the inside of the coat and this is were I've taken a detour from the pattern instructions and creating more work for myself. So far, I'm not regretting any of the extra work. The hem bands have been attached with one small change, I interfaced them with a fusible interfacing. I like that the hem has more structure than if it were left without interfacing especially with the hem darts.  

The other detour is that I chose to underline my coat. Underlining is basically another layer of fabric that has either been sewn to your fashion fabric or in this case my coat lining. There are many reasons why one might want to underline. It is a technique that is asked for in some of my vintage couturier patterns. And I underlined an eyelet fabric for modesty reasons with this vintage wrap dress. With this coat project it is all about warmth. 


Instead of underlining my fashion fabric like in the previous projects, I'm going to baste my underlining fabric to my lining fabric. You might see this as being referred to as interlining in some sewing reference books. The fabric I chose for this is a light-weight fleece. If money was no object, I would have gone with a light-weight wool. Just to make sure the wind wouldn't blow right through me.    

Most reference books suggest cutting the underlining fabric, basting to the lining (or fashion fabric) and then sewing but I decided to sew the darts individually rather than together.  


It worked and I didn't have to worry about the layers slipping as a stitched the darts. Right now the back piece is pinned and waiting to be basted. I still have to cut the underling fabric for the sleeves and front. Stitch more darts and baste. This might take awhile and feeling under the weather I'll be happy to have this project all wrapped up by Christmas. Hopefully sooner!  

Until then... happy sewing!  




Sunday, 4 December 2016

Winter Coat: There's Progress to Report

I NEED a winter coat! This project moved from a want-to-make project list where it's been for the past five years. I know it's hard to believe I'm not still procrastinating on this one, but like I said, I really need a winter coat since the zipper broke on my old coat. 


Here's visual proof that there has been some progress even though I'm fighting a cold this weekend. The plan is to finish it by the end of the weekend as there is more snow in the forecast this week. And when the wind blows across the playground during those recess duties, you would think you're standing at Portage and Main. I don't know if I'll finish this project in this time-line, I just know that I'm going to try. [Fingers crossed.]


The first change I made were to the pockets. This tiny pocket pattern couldn't possibly hold a pair of a pair of winter gloves / mitts and maybe a tuque. I extended the length of the pocket pattern piece by two inches and when it came to sewing it to the coat, it was raised one and a half inches. It's perfect now.  

I've read a few reviews that noted this loose-fitting coat pattern runs large but I'm not going to worry about that since in the prairies during the winter, it is all about layers. And if I can wear a bulky sweater underneath, I'm good with that. 

Talking about layers... 

The plan is to add lining to this wool coat. I'm using a cotton-back Kasha satin lining. I plan to add another layer with a lightweight fleece between the fashion and lining fabrics for some extra warmth. 


This weekend, I made a quick trip to Mitchell Fabrics to look for buttons and I found these. I picked up ten large ones and four small ones. The small ones are for the collar, I'm thinking about sewing a hood that I can button to the collar edge.

Another idea I want to incorporate into this coat is a design feature often found in vintage fur coats, the elasticized inner cuff. I'm going to give it a try.  

So far, it's been easy. Tomorrow might be a different story when I tackle the lining and underlining.  Have you ever sewn a winter coat? Any words of wisdom you would like to share?  

Well, until next time... Happy Sewing!  

💋


Saturday, 3 December 2016

Oooo, Silk!

Before I get started on the coat, I have one project to show 'n tell. Mama R's latest top is made in silk. I actually finished this last month but didn't have a chance to take photos and blog about it until now.


The top is another version using out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5561.


Not a whole lot to say about the construction. There was the usual adjustment to the hem and shortening of the sleeves. I thought that the latest adjustment to the raglan sleeves was enough to raise and tighten the neckline so Mama R didn't feel exposed but she managed to mention that this one also sits too low. I give up!

I will say that this lovely silk fabric is lighter than the other fabrics that I used on the previous versions so that may contribute to the feeling that the neckline sits low.


I recently found this fabric at Northwest / Marshall's Fabrics in the bridal section. Even though it is a silk fabric I threw caution to the wind and pre-treated it with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer on the delicate cycle. I finished with a light pressing on the silk setting. No issues to report on the pre-treatment of this fabric.


The Stats:  

Fabric:  1.8 metres

Fusible Interfacing:  0.4 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, thread clippers, thread for the serger, sewing machine and hand-stitching, hand needle, new sewing machine needle, cutting table, pins, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, some radio listening, wrist brace, chocolates, and coffee.

Happy Sewing!

💋

Wednesday, 30 November 2016

November in Review...

Sewing:

L to R:  Cotton tweed jumper (Lida Baday design), out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 8943; wool crepe dress (Lynn Mizono design), Vogue 1410; refashioned scuba knit skirt, OOP Vogue 8939; yellow cotton knit bathrobe, OOP Simplicity 7417; cotton microwave bowl holders, no pattern used.

The only item on my want-to-make list for November that I didn't get around to sewing were knickers. It's on the back-burner now that I need a new winter coat since I'm too cheap to spring for someone to replace the zipper.

RTW Fast

I will admit that I've found myself at the mall over the month and I have to say that it is getting a lot easier to turn my nose up at RTW especially when looking closely at the labels. With the exception of the scuba knit skirt, all the items I made this month were made in better quality fabrics that I can find in the retail landscape. Sad, but true. There's a whole lot of man-made mystery fabrics out there. 

Stats: 


Supplies
Quantity Used from the stash this Month 
Quantity Used this Year
Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape
0
1.88 metres
0
Bias Tape
0
7.41 metres
2
Buttons
0
26
7
Chain
0
0
0
Cord Stopper
0
2
1
Elastic
1 metre
11.0 metres
5 metre
Fabric
12.7 metres
88.15 metres
95.7 metres
Fusible Tape
1.5 metres
22.10 metres
0
Hand needles
0
0
0
Hook and Eyes
0
0
0
Interfacing
2.7 metres
5.7 metres
10 metres
Lace trim
0
0
0
Pattern (new)
0
13
30
Pattern (previously used)
4
31
0
Ribbon
4.5 metres
6.0 metres
2 metres
Serger needles
1
5
0
Serger thread
3
5
10
Sewing machine needles
0
13
4
Snaps
0
0
0
Thread
3
13
29
Trim
0
1.8 metres
1.8 metres
Velcro
0
0
0
Zipper
0
4
8

Happy Sewing!  


Sunday, 27 November 2016

Well, I've Been Putting It Off For Far Too Long...

Yup, the winter coat that I've been talking and talking and talking about making over the years is back on my radar. I know when it comes to sewing a winter coat, I've been all talk and no action. So, you might be wondering what's different now?  


The zipper on my down and feather filled winter coat is broken. I was hoping that it would be an easy fix since I had all the pieces that are no longer functioning but I can't find anyone who can help me with trying to piece it back together. What I was able to find were businesses willing to replace the zipper. Are you sitting down? I'm looking at seventy dollars to replace the zipper. 


And no, I'm not willing to do this type of repair job myself. It would be a major pain in the wrist and I really don't like mending and alterations. Sometimes it is just better to take it in to get done. Since my winter coat won't be making any appearance in an upcoming Monday's Mending Pile post and I'm budgeting for another lay-off in a few weeks, I best hit the stash and pull out some supplies.  

At this point it would be more economical to sew a coat. I have everything I'll need in the stash.  


I still have this wool fabric sitting in my stash along with the lining fabrics I was considering. I'm also going back to this pattern, Vogue 8934, which as been on my want-to-make list for quite awhile.  


I'm all set, except for buttons. I'll have to find some buttons. I wouldn't mind adding a hood as well. Hopefully, I'll have a toasty warm winter coat before winter arrives. 

Happy Sewing!  



Thursday, 24 November 2016

In Sewing News Today...

It is that crazy time of year...


I'm busy with Christmas sewing. Not for me, this Christmas sewing is for orders related to the Etsy shop. I'm trying to get them done as soon as they come in.  


I just finished them this morning. I'm trying to fit in sewing whenever I can, sometimes it can be challenging. So much is going on.  

In other news... remember when this happened? I brought my copy to work for "show 'n tell" last week and that is when it got damaged when it collided with my water bottle. I will admit that I went back to my local bookstore to pick up a new copy. Boy, that makes me sound so vain. Yikes! I came home empty handed because they were all sold out. I couldn't find anywhere. Well, Monday I received an email from the editors of Vogue graciously offering to send a copy. How they knew, I have no idea. I'm just excited that a copy is on it's way. Boy, when those Vogue Pattern magazines hit the shelves they don't stay there long. A true sign that sewing culture is alive and well.  

There is more to tell in sewing news, but it is going to have to wait...

Until then, Happy Sewing!  


Monday, 21 November 2016

Monday's Mending Pile

I've been cleaning out the closet and bringing out all the winter gear. Even though there is no snow on the ground, there is a nippy feeling in the air. Soon, I hope snow will be here and allergy season will come to an end but sadly there is still rain in the weather forecast this week. Rain and leaves are not a good mix for those with allergies. But I digress and this is supposed to be a sewing blog...


Where was I? Oh yeah, winter clothes. So, this dress, OOP Vogue 8939, I made last year with a scuba knit fabric and would you believe it now fits me like I'm wearing a scuba diving suit? I swear, it must have shrank because I don't believe I gained that much weight since making this dress. I felt like my arms were stuffed into sausage casings and I was being strangled by the turtle neck.  


The only thing to do was to get rid of those problematic areas.  


I can now breath with it changed into a pull-on skirt.  I just serged the cut edge, turned down 1 3/8" and top-stitched with my walking foot and the knit stitch. I used an inch wide elastic. Last winter's dress is now this winter's skirt.  

Happy Mending!  

💋 

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