Thursday, 24 July 2014

Pattern Give-away Winner: The Jacket Package

Thank you to everyone who entered the pattern give-away!

I won't keep you waiting....


The winner of the jacket pattern package is number ...


Congratulations SewDiane! If you would drop me your mailing details at grrracar (at) gmail (dot) com I will drop these pattern in the mail.

Happy Sewing!

Monday, 21 July 2014

Pattern Give-away: The Jacket Package

This week's pattern give-away is all about jackets, McCall's 5007, McCall's 5937, Vogue 8480 and Vogue 8715.   


The first three patterns are jacket only patterns, Vogue 8715 also has patterns for a skirt and pants. All of the patterns are combination sizes 6, 8, 10, 12. And they are all unopened and factory folded patterns.

If you are interested promised not to sell them, give them a good home where you will use them, share them and make something fabulous with them and leave a message below. I will ship internationally and will draw for these using random number generator on Thursday, July 24th.

Good luck and Happy Sewing!

Sunday, 20 July 2014

Creamy, Dreamy Jacket

Stash busting 2014:  Vogue 1263 Jacket

Fabric:      2.9 metres

Thread:    1 spool

Button:     1 large decorative button (maybe)

I forgot how many darts are involved in the creation of Vogue 1263! There are a total of sixteen darts in the making of this jacket, four in the back shawl collar plus another four in the facing.  And there are those beautiful six darts that start from the back hemline and radiate upwards. The two double pointed dart in the front near the pocket. Yes, all those darts give this jacket the incredible shape. You're going to have to take my word for it with these photographs that are not doing the details justice.


There are also flat felled and french seams that give this jacket a beautiful finish. I won't talk much about the flat-felled seams as I did write about them when I made the first version of this jacket. The french seam finish on the pockets is a nice finish. I didn't do these on the first version but I'm glad I took the time and did them here. What a difference!


The fabric is a 2014 addition to my stash. I fell for it when I first laid eyes on it two years ago at Fabricland but waited until it was a bit more affordable. It took awhile until it reached my affordable range and luckily the last bit on the bolt was enough to make the jacket. That's what you can call cutting it close (sorry for the pun). I actually cut this out in February shortly after I picked it up but it took some time to get around to sewing this up. It feels soft, it is not wool but has the thickness of wool, but also like a soft felt, the label said there is a high amount of polyester. My fingers are crossed that this fabric won't pill because right now it looks great. I just hope it wears well over time.  

Pinned front as I debate if I should put the button on, hmmm?  

The button that I have in mind has been in my stash a decade, at least. I picked it up at Courage My Love in Toronto. I plan to go with the majority vote and used the rectangular shaped button if I go with a button after all.


You see, I just have one problem when it comes to sewing the button and buttonhole. My Janome sewing machine has this wonderful automatic buttonhole maker. The problem is that the button I want to use is too big for this feature on my sewing machine. Mama R has a Singer sewing machine that can make any size of buttonholes but she is not too keen on letting me use her machine. I don't think she has completely forgiven me over that Singer threadle incident.

Yeah, after seeing this picture and looking this wide,
maybe I should keep it open and skip the button? 
I could use this opportunity to learn a new-to-me technique and sew a button hole by hand. Or I can take the easy way out and see if Stitch It! would sew a buttonhole for me.

For now, I'm considering this project done until I decided how to tackle the buttonhole. Or maybe I'll leave it alone and go without. Until then...

Happy Sewing!


  

Saturday, 19 July 2014

Vogue 1263: Pattern Ratings

While working on Vogue 1263, I've been thinking about the "easy" rating that's assigned to this pattern.  

 

The description from the pattern envelope states that it is a "very loose-fitting jacket [that] has front extending to shawl collar, side front dart seams extending into pockets, two-piece sleeves, back princess seams, no side seams on lower jacket, back darts stitched down and flat fell seam finishing." 

This pattern has a variety of darts throughout the jacket, a double pointed front dart, back hemline darts, neckline/shawl collar darts. The darts on this jacket give this pattern the three dimensional shaping that makes it so unique. The flat felled seams finish off the look both inside and out. 

It made me wonder how Vogue patterns define "easy" since some other sewers have rated this "difficult but great for advance sewers" over on Pattern Review. Vogue patterns offers these definitions:
Ease of Sewing—Know Before You Sew
VERY EASY The easiest and quickest patterns to sew. Great for beginner or the experienced sewer with limited time available. Expect limited construction details, hand sewing and fitting. Easy-to-sew fabrics are recommended.
EASY Easy-to-sew patterns but with more details than the Very Easy category. Perfect for those with limited sewing knowledge or little time. Expect a wide variety of sewing procedures—there will be more details when the techniques are simple and fewer details when the techniques are more involved. Some fitting knowledge required.
AVERAGE These patterns are perfect if you have more time to sew, and more experience sewing. Look for challenging designer techniques, tailoring, unique construction details. Expect more fitting and inner construction. Find more variety in fabrics from the stretchiest knits to synthetic leathers and suedes.
ADVANCED The finest patterns featuring the best of European and American Couture. Perfect for those who like the sewing challenge of professional tailoring and fine couture techniques. Expect intricate fashion shaping, hidden construction details, couture inner construction, fine touches of hand sewing and bias draping.

I don't know if I would rate Vogue 1263 an "easy" project after making Vogue 8916. Vogue 8916 had princess seams just like Vogue 1263 but no darts, not even flat felled seams. It did have a lining which was simple to sew as it was a direct copy of the outer pieces. Yet, Vogue 8916 was given an "average" rating. 

Even with underlining the Vogue 8916 jacket I still felt that it was an easy project. I thought that Vogue 8916 was easy and this project, Vogue 1263, is an "average" project because of all the time that went into sewing the numerous darts and finishing off the seams and even the pocket construction took more time that the pockets on the previous jacket.  

I don't know if I would say this jacket is "perfect for those with limited sewing knowledge or little time," I will say that I would highly recommend it. I wonder if I would be more agreeable with the "easy" rating if I chose a "novelty organza, wool crepe, taffeta or cloque" fabric recommended on the pattern envelope? 

Anyway, the latest version is almost finished. Just have to solve a buttonhole issue, sew the button and snap some pictures.  

Happy Sewing!  
   

Friday, 18 July 2014

Interrupting Vogue 1263 Sewing...

Update:  Patterns are ordered, everything on the website is perfect.  Counting down until they arrive, I suspect about four weeks. That should give me some time to clear up the other projects in queue.

My Vogue 1263 jacket sewing was interrupted by a very important notice.


I got a email notification that there is a big sale including the new fall Vogue patterns. I should be ready to sew that Marcy Tilton jacket and Lynn Mizono dress by the time the patterns get here. As the excitement built, I ordered the patterns only to discover a glitch. At check-out the patterns are showing up as pre-sale prices.  

I'm going to have to interrupt my Vogue 1263 sewing again later and see if all the glitches are ironed out.  

Happy Sewing!  

Vogue 1263: Marking and Pockets.

Vogue 1263 has to be one of my favourite patterns in my collection. I made this jacket in a boiled wool a couple of years ago. And I've dreamed about making an off-white version ever since I laid my eyes on this fabric. I had to wait quite some time for it to go on sale.


I do remember that I had some issues with the pockets when I made the first jacket. They look fine from the outside, you can't notice any issues unless you look very closely at the inside of the jacket.


Yea, it is not pretty. In my defence, I believe I was on tylenol 3 at the time. But I digress...

On the first jacket I cut the pocket interfacing out of muslin. This time I cut the pocket interfacing out of fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing is what is recommended in the pattern instructions. The fusible interfacing worked beautifully. I don't know why I didn't go with it the first time.

I noticed over at Pattern Review that most people left the pockets off but I love the pockets. Those who did the pockets, myself included on the first one, mentioned that they also strayed from the pattern instructions. Here is my take on the pockets, follow the instructions.

Take the time to transfer all the markings carefully. It will pay off in the end. I found it easier to keep everything aligned by basting in place after I matched up the markings.


You'll need to match up the markings with right sides together. Stitch the pocket facing to the jacket front/back along the stitching lines, cut and clip.


Flip the facing to the wrong side, top-stitch and turn over again.


Now you can pin the pocket to the pocket facing, stitch a 3/8" seam allowance, trim...


... flip and press.


Stitch again, finishing off with a french seam.


Now, these pockets are pretty, if I do say so myself. I think it is worth the work and recommend that if you want to sew up Vogue 1263, don't skip the pockets. They really are a lovely feature of this jacket.

Happy Sewing!







Thursday, 17 July 2014

In Sewing News Today...

I have cut out the fashion fabric for Mama R's navy dress and jacket using her two favourite patterns, Simplicity 2372 for the dress and Vogue 8916 for the jacket.  


The fashion fabric is a navy satin crepe. I really dislike sewing this fabric. Mama R know that.  I think she gives it to me to sew just to bug me. For me, sewing satin crepe is up there with sewing curtains and table cloths. Yuck!, (yup, it is up there with my least favourite kind of sewing). I don't know how people sew bridal stuff, I couldn't do it. But I admire their talent for sewing such challenging fabric. I just have to get over it and remember who I'm sewing for, Mama R.  

I'm going to have to rearrange my sewing space so that the fabric doesn't hang over the table edge while I'm sewing. And I think I'll need to pull out the walking foot to contend with the slippery-ness of the fabric. Not looking forward to this project. Yup, not looking forward to it at all.  

So I'm procrastinating. I pulled out a sewing project that has been in my sewing drawer for more than a couple of months now.


It is Vogue 1263, the Donna Karan jacket from a few years ago. I made one version in a indigo coloured boiled wool but this new one will be a cream coloured jacket. I love the details in this jacket.

Maybe by the time I finish this project, I will have built up the courage to take on that satin crepe...

Happy Sewing!


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