Thursday, 12 October 2017

Silk Eva Dress

I will admit, I'm dying to sew something new. But I couldn't deny that the Eva dress is one fabulous pattern. And time was ticking away and this is not the time to try something new. It's time to go with something that I know will work and just get it done. This is a special occasion dress.   


And words can not express how happy I am right now. It's been an insane week of trying to get sewing projects done by the weekend.


Along the way there were injuries, boo-boos, bandages, heating pads, medications and quality time with the seam ripper. But in the end, everything worked out and words can not express the amount of relief I feel.

Nothing new to say about the construction of the Eva dress. I made it with basically the same changes as the others. Oh, but the armhole seam I sewed an 1/2" seam instead of 5/8" on the others. The rest of the seams were sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance. The fabric is a silk that I found in the home decor department. It was pre-treated with a tumble through a wash cycle and a spin in the dryer. All on the delicate cycles.   


The Stats:

Fabric:  3 metres 100% silk

Fusible Tape:  1 metres Knit-N-Stable tape

Needle:  Microtex 60/8

Seam binding:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  The Eva dress by Tessuti patterns

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, silk pins, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, organza pressing cloth, tailor's ham, sleeve roll, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, threads, and a seam ripper.  

Happy Sewing!


Wednesday, 11 October 2017

And Now the Matching Jacket

This is a project that a week ago was no where on my radar along with this dress. It's funny how plans can quickly change.


This is the same pattern that I used for the black wool jacket but with one more change. Mama R didn't like how the lining fabric showed when she moved her arm. In the original pattern instructions the sleeve and the lining are to be stitched together at the wrist. On this one I extended the sleeve length an additional inch and a half to give the appearance of a facing with the fashion fabric and to hide the lining fabric if Mom were to lift up her arms.


It did mean that I strayed from the pattern instructions to accommodate this latest request. I didn't mind. Actually, I found it easier this time around since I didn't have to hand-stitch the sleeve lining at the sleeve cap.

Instead, I flat sewed the sleeve cap instead of doing a set-in sleeve both on the fashion fabric and lining. Then I sewed the bodice and sleeve sides. I also left the wrist open and an opening at the bottom back to pull the jacket to the right sides instead of pulling it through an open armhole. I thought it was much easier. The final step was to slip stitch the openings closed.


Oh, and this one I added a little Vogue label. I know it's not an actual Vogue designer pattern but with all the changes that Mom requested I think it makes it an Mama R Vogue designer original and worthy of a label.

The fabric as previous mentioned a bargain find from Fabricland. It was quite narrow in width compared to other piece of satin back crepe I've found in the past. I started with five and a half metres and thought for sure I would have enough for two dresses and a jacket, I'm only left with 1.4 metres. This piece of fabric is 115 cm (45") wide.  Maybe there is enough for a top someday?


The Stats:

Fabric:  2.1 metres 100% polyester

Interfacing:  0.5 metres horsehair interfacing

Underlining: 1.2  metres organza

Needles:  2 Klasse Sharps, size 70 (broke one while sewing too close to pins.  My bad.)

Thread:  1 more spool polished off

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8916

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, ruler, measuring tape, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, tweezers, canned air, ironing board, iron, Polysporin® (knocked the iron over and it landed on my arm), pain meds, tailor's ham, sleeve roll, pressing block / clapper, pressing cloth, damp cloth (for wiping off water stains from the iron! Thankfully, it worked.) hand needle, silk thread, tea, coffee, and some good tunes.

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, 10 October 2017

In Sewing News Today...

I'm feeling under the weather and trying to push through some sewing projects that I need done by the weekend. It's been a rough day of nose blowing, back soreness, and a burn to my arm when I knocked over the iron. Sometimes I don't know when to call it quits. Luckily, I was distracted by the email alert that the new Vogue pattern release came out this evening.  

I have to admit there are more than a few designs that I admire. Although I'm surprised that there weren't any pantsuits in the holiday collection. Anyway, here are some of my favourite looks.   

Now, the last thing I need is another dress pattern but I do like the waistline detail on Vogue 1566. A jigsaw puzzle dress.   



Vogue 1567 is my favourite pattern of this collection. It might be safe to say that Paco Peralta is one of my favourite Vogue designers.   

Vogue 1570 might make it into my pattern collection if I were twenty pounds lighter and five inches taller. It's the wrap front on the pants that really caught my attention.

Vogue 1572 caught my eye about a week ago when Carlos was online tempting everyone with the new collection. A square neckline, peplum and wide leg pants, some of my favourite details.   

 

Did I mention how thrilled I am to see wide leg pants that sit at the natural to high waistline? And I like that these Vogue 9282 pants have a the back zipper and button front details.  

  
A couple of Marcy Tilton designs caught my eye, Vogue 9283 a skirt pattern that reminds me of OOP Vogue 8637.  

Vogue 9287 is a loose-fitting jacket that looks awfully comfortable.   


Oh and this accessories pattern, Vogue 9291, by Kathryn Brenne! If only it came out in the previous release, it would have been perfect for this weekend's outing. 

There is one more pattern that has caught my eye recently, it's Simplicity 8529. It's currently on back order and on the top of my wish list along with Vogue 1567.  
How about you? Are there any holiday patterns that have caught your attention?  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 9 October 2017

Happy Thanksgiving!

To all of the Canadian sewing people out there who are celebrating this weekend, Happy Thanksgiving! I hope that you're having a wonderful celebration.    

And wishing you a bit of sewing time as well.


Sunday, 8 October 2017

Yes, It's Another Simplicity 2372


The only change is that Mama R asked me to lengthen it another inch. You know just to mix things up. Kidding aside, why mess with a good thing?  


She love the pleats around the neckline and sleeve and how comfortable it is to wear. There were a few changes made to the original pattern.  


This pullover dress was given an invisible zipper for easier exit. The sleeves were lengthen, the neckline adjusted and the centre front seam line was removed and cut on the foldline. There is no request for pockets because she is asking for a matching jacket which will have pockets.  

The fabric was a bargain, literally. I found it in the bargain centre much to my surprise. It's a 100% polyester satin back crepe. Mama R loves this fabric. So it was a no-brainer as to whether or not to pick it up and I picked up all five metres on the bolt. And then when I showed it to Mama R she wasn't convinced that it would be a good colour. Oy! I'm glad she came around because I think it's a lovely colour for her.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres 100% polyester satin back crepe

Interfacing:  0.3 metres fusible interfacing

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Basting Tape:  44" two side tape

Thread:  5 spools (mostly used up on the serger)

Pattern:  Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, silk pins, scissors, thread clippers, ruler, measuring tape, measurement gauge, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, zipper foot, walking foot, regular foot, serger, tweezers, iron, ironing board, tailor's sleeve, and a tailor's ham.  

Happy Sewing!  


Wednesday, 4 October 2017

Wool Jacket: OOP Vogue 8916

Wool jacket is such an insufficient description. I wish you could stroke it and feel how beautifully soft it feels, inside and out. The softest wool on the outside lined with silk. I'm so pleased with how it turned out. And my fingers are crossed that Mom feels the same way as this one is for her.  


It's made with out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8916, a pattern I've made before, so Mama R knew exactly what she wants in a new jacket. First, it had to be a black jacket. Check. Then she asked for an extra inch in the length of the sleeves. And that was an easy on to check off as well.    


The challenge came in my fabric choice. The wool was fantastic to work with, it was the silk I chose to line the jacket with that presented a new experience and a few challenges. I used Microtex needles and I have to say they were worth every penny. The challenge regarding these needles came to threading them. The hole was too small for the automatic threader to push the thread through. I've been spoiled and it took some time to finally thread the needle. I used silk thread and silk pins to sew the lining pieces after hand basting.


Another challenge came in how to cut out the pattern pieces and I used the sandwich between layers of tissue paper method which worked out great. The fabric was prone to fraying and I did spend quite a bit of time hand-stitching the inside of the jacket and pocket edges. I think it was time well spent even if the inside won't be seen.


The inside is underlined with organza and the front piece was interfaced with fusible horsehair interfacing. The fabrics were pretreated for shrinkage. The wool was pre-treated with the damp towel and dryer method and then steam pressed. The silk was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer on the delicate cycles and then steam pressed under an organza pressing cloth. All handled the pretreatment process without any issues.  


The Stats:  

Fashion Fabric:  1.2 metres 100% wool

Underlining:  1.2 metres organza

Fusible Horsehair:  0.5 metres

Lining:  1.1 metres 100% silk

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8916

Needles:  2 - Microtex sewing machine needles 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, walking foot, cutting table, scissors,  thread clippers, silk pins, measuring tape, rulers, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board, pressing block / clapper, sleeve ham, tailor's ham, pressing mitt, threads, hand needles and coffee.

Happy Sewing!


Saturday, 30 September 2017

September in Review...

Sewing:

I had big plans for National Sewing Month.
National Sewing Month begins tomorrow and the theme is to sew for the beauty of it. I have quite a bit of sewing to do for my beautiful Mom. She wants a new jacket in black. I have a lovely napped wool fabric set aside for that project and splurged on some silk lining. And then she would like another dress in a navy satin back crepe. There is an Eva dress to make for a friend. For myself I would really like to concentrate on sewing some comfortable pieces of sleepwear. I'll see how these plans work out.    

So how did I do? That new jacket for my Mom is in the works. It's all cut out, the underlining is hand-stitched to the fashion fabric and that's about it. I have two weeks to get it done. Yikes! I did manage to get her dress done this month. And same with the Eva dress for my friend. I actually made two, one didn't work out and then there was some unforeseen pattern grading before sewing a second one. Sleepwear for myself didn't even make it onto the radar.  

Clockwise Top L to R: Microwave cozy, no pattern used; (centre) linen Eva dress, Tessuti patterns; silk infinity scarf, no pattern used; satin back crepe dress, Simplicity 2372; (bottom L corner) linen Eva dress, Tessuti patterns.  
As seen above two unplanned items made it out of the sewing workspace. A silk infinity scarf when this beautiful fabric went on sale. And I sold another microwave cozy, this one was a made-to-order request.    

The Fasts:

I can't say that I stayed away from buying any fabric this month (see the silk infinity scarf) but I do believe I lost my desire to shop for fabric after recording my fabric collection in binders. 


Yes, it certainly was an eye-opening experience. This just might be the thing that helps me stay on track. 

The Stats:


Supplies
Quantity Used from the stash this Month 
Quantity Used this Year
Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape
1 metre
4.83 metres
0
Bias Tape
 5.6 metres
21.2 metres
10 metres
Buttons

45
50
Chain

0
0
Cord Stopper

0
0
Elastic

32.3 metres
38 metres
Fabric
9.3 metres
103.9 metres
76
metres
Fusible Tape
 2 metres
43.26 metres
6 rolls
Hand needles

2
0
Hook and Eyes

0
0
Interfacing
0.5 metres
7.2 metres
6 metres
Lace trim
2.6 metres
0
Pattern (new)

14
18
Pattern (previously used--TNT)
3
25
0
Ribbon

1.1 metres
5.3 metres
Serger needles

0
0
Serger thread

4
12
Sewing machine needles
2
4
9
Snaps

5
0
Thread
1
15
18
Trim
2 metres
7 metres
Velcro

0
0
Zipper
1
8
10


The Plans

I don't even know if I should attempt to make plans since this month's plans turned out to be such a disaster. But here goes, 
  1. Sew that cardigan style jacket for Mom.  This one is a priority.  
  2. I need a fancy dress for an upcoming event in two weeks.  I was thinking about another Eva dress in a grey silk fabric but I'm not all that excited about sewing another version of the dress. I might have over-dosed on the pattern. But if I don't sew it, I have no idea what will replace it.    
  3. A jacket to go with said fancy dress. 
  4. I still want to sew some sleepwear.  
  5. And could you believe that I entered the coat contest over at Pattern Review. I have OOP Vogue 1213 that looks like a fun pattern to try. We'll see if there is time.    

Happy Sewing!

Silk Eva Dress

I will admit, I'm dying to sew something new . But I couldn't deny that the Eva dress is one fabulous pattern. And time was ticking...